If you’ve ever visited Remhoogte Wine Estate in Stellenbosch and eaten at one (or both!) of its restaurants – VUUR and VUUR Goose Island – you’ll know that owner and chef Shaun Scrooby’s journey into open-fire cooking is deeply rooted in his upbringing. Raised on the West Coast, he spent much of his youth around family braais and fire was a huge part of life. However, it was during his time travelling through Africa and working in the safari industry that the significance of fire truly struck him. “Fire unites us all in Africa,” he explains, emphasising its role not just as a cooking method, but as a cultural touchstone that connects people across the continent.  

At VUUR and VUUR Goose Island, Shaun and his team cook using up to six different varieties of wood to influence flavours and textures in their dishes. 

He says, “when we started out and had a leek dish on the menu, we smoked it with eucalyptus and then put some char on the leeks. This was a revelation for us, as I never thought that I would use this type of wood for cooking. The aroma that it gave and then mixed with the romesco sauce it went with just blew my mind! Since then, we started looking more at wood not only as the fuel to cook with, but also as an ingredient in our taste arsenal.” 

Shaun carefully chooses each wood based on its burning temperature, density, and aroma. Lighter woods, like black wattle, are ideal for delicate ingredients, he says, such as fish and vegetables, while denser options, like Kameeldoring, impart a robust, smokiness to meat.

When choosing his firewood, Shaun factors in a number of elements: “We choose wood that has been cured for a long time… Generally, at least a year. It is important that our harder wood is collected and not cut off, as this also helps with the sustainability of the wood in the long run.” 

Sustainability remains at the forefront of Shaun’s fire-cooking ethos and he carefully sources wood from suppliers that practise sustainable methods, such as using fallen trees instead of cutting down live ones. This approach is essential, given the amount of wood the restaurant relies on – it adds up to between seven and 12 tonnes per month! The use of invasive species, like black wattle, also supports local conservation efforts to clear land for indigenous fynbos restoration. 

When it comes to cooking, Shaun’s passion for combining traditional methods with modern techniques is evident in his approach to equipment. Whether using a medieval-inspired flambadou (such a fun word to say), which sears fat to create intense flavours, or repurposing old cast-iron skillets from Cape Town’s Milnerton Market, he constantly finds new ways to reimagine fire-based cooking.

“We all love a braai at home,” he says, “and it’s now that chefs are seeing that they can combine their normal daily kitchen operations with a wood-fired element to really achieve the extra flavour profile that so many of us love to experience at home. It is that primal way of cooking that leaves the required satisfaction with the diner, the nostalgia of seeing something so familiar elevated to the next level.”  

The resurgence of open-fire cooking, Shaun believes, reflects a deep-seated yearning for authentic, natural experiences. Inspired by global icons like Victor Arguinzoniz of Asador Etxebarri and Niklas Ekstedt of Ekstedt in Stockholm, he views this as a reconnection with the roots of cooking. South Africa is proudly taking its rightful place in this global movement, offering diners a uniquely African-style experience that redefines upmarket dining through the magic of fire. Beyond cooking over flames, local chefs are also innovating by incorporating coal and ash in novel, creative ways.

For Shaun, it’s not just about mastering the technique and looking hardcore in his fire-cooking get-up; it’s about creating an experience that ignites all the senses. From the crackling sounds of coals to the scent of smoke, the sizzle as the food goes onto the grill and the mesmerising sight of flames. 

“This, in a nutshell, is what draws so many people to fire… Just like a moth that is drawn to a candle. The memories of childhood or standing around a campfire or a braai at your home… This is what takes us back to that happy place and where a lot of our fond memories make the food just taste so much better.” 

VUUR currently holds the 88th spot on the World’s Best Steak Restaurants list and is the highest-ranked African restaurant in this global lineup.

Images: Claire Gunn

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