Saké, the iconic Japanese rice ‘wine’, is taking the drinks world by storm – with exports having steadily increased year on year for the past 13 years. Recently, FYN, an Eat Out three-star restaurant in Cape Town, contributed to this growth by introducing a range of Japanese saké to its beverage menu across all FYN Group establishments, including Ramenhead and Beyond.

“I’ve noticed a preference for lighter saké styles served in traditional o-choko cups, which highlight their delicate flavours and sweetness,” says FYN Service and Beverage Director Jennifer Hugé, who – together with chef Peter Tempelhoff and FYN CEO Paul Bruce-Brand – has been instrumental in the onerous and time-consuming process of importing premium Japanese saké to South African shores. 

 

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“When it comes to premium varieties, like aged saké, Daiginjo, and Ginjo, I find that using wine glasses enhances the sensory experience by capturing their nuanced aromas. Additionally, there’s a noticeable appreciation for artisanal clay saké vessels, which not only add to the aesthetic appeal, but also create a sense of individuality and craftsmanship in each serving. Overcoming import challenges to bring this exceptional saké to South Africa was a testament to our passion for bringing this unique and outstanding beverage to our guests,” says Jennifer.

What exactly is saké?

Saké broadly translates to ‘alcohol’. “The saké that many of us know is made from rice, koji, and water, which is fermented in a process similar to wine and beer. However, saké is complex and involves a multiple parallel fermentation process not found in any other alcoholic beverage, where saccharification (the conversion of starches to sugars) and alcoholic fermentation occur at the same time. It’s important to note that saké is not a distilled spirit. The ABV (alcohol by volume) sits between 15%-20%, which is much lower than most spirits,” explains Jennifer.

Phil Burrows, Bar Manager at Tjing Tjing, emphasises that low-ABV drinks are becoming more popular, so saké is a great substitute for a high-alcohol spirit because it can still add a lot of depth to drinks without making them too heavy or high in alcohol.

“We offer a variety of saké options by the bottle, featuring several different types. We serve a pouring saké, available in a carafe, and incorporate saké into a few of our cocktails, such as our ‘Saké Sonic’, which includes saké, tonic, soda, and a cucumber shrub,” he says.

On the rise

In terms of its rising popularity, drinks writer, educator and judge Leah van Deventer says that Japan has long held a fascination for drinks enthusiasts.

“Spirits professionals, such as myself, are intrigued by nerdy stuff like parallel and solid-state fermentation; bartenders are in awe of the technical talent of the nation’s drinkslingers, and enamoured by its superior bar tools; and collectors go mad for Japanese whisky. I’d suggest the recent increased interest in saké stems from this, fanned by a global trend of Japanese food, which saké naturally complements. If you look around, you’ll notice an upswing in Japanese-inspired fashion too.”

Cassandra Eichhoff, Principal of the European Bartender School in Cape Town, believes that saké deserves more attention in the global and local liquid scene. “It’s a fascinating and complex beverage and its rich and cultural significance offers a diverse range of flavour profiles that make an excellent addition to any bar offering.” She says that as the demand grows in South Africa (depending on availability), we’ll likely see spirits such as soju, saké and pisco integrated more prolifically into cocktail menus.

 

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Andrew Duff from La Petite Colombe, winner of the 2023 Eat Out Patrón Mixology Award, says that people are realising that saké is not as one-dimensional as they once thought. Like wine, different sakés have different flavour profiles and each one brings something unique to the table. “That’s why restaurants these days are offering to pair menus with a special saké pairing. I have also seen a trend in using different flavours of saké in classic cocktails to create something unique to the establishment. Our idea of incorporating saké at La Petite Colombe was to do it in a unique way. We make a kalamansi cocktail featuring kalamansi juice, which we cook down with lemongrass, and then add saké to it at the end to infuse the base. It brings a touch of savoury umami flavour to the drink and it’s a fun way to include the chefs in the cocktail-making process.”  

Saké and food

Leah says that the versatility of saké is one of its biggest attractions, not only in the multiple ways you can mix it, but in its food-pairing capacity, where it complements an array of dishes.

Jennifer echoes this sentiment and notes that there’s a Japanese phrase: “Saké doesn’t fight food.”

“Saké in a Japanese meal softly emphasises the flavours of the food without diverting them. These days, with saké being more prolific, there is also an approach of enhancing the food in harmony with the flavours and aromas and textures of the saké. Here, the temperature of the saké and style will definitely change the umami, acidity, aromatic and texture characteristics of the experience,” says Jennifer.  

“Saké is like wine, it’s a personal preference – some might enjoy more fruity or more heavy styles. When it comes to pairing, I tend to work harmoniously with the weight and flavour profile of the dish.” 

Interestingly, she says that cheese and saké is a standout pairing, where the lactic acid in the saké intensifies the creamy element of the cheese. “Another pairing that I have tried recently is our truffle chawanmushi, which was out of this world. The umami notes were so intensified! I also really enjoy sparkling saké with caviar, as it plays the same notes as Champagne.”  

More than a drink

Cassandra enjoys the traditional serving of saké in terms of the vessel in which the liquid sits in. “For me, this always highlights the importance of cultural traditions and enjoying spirits in their truest form, while enticing the drinker to do more research about its roots and influence in its sector.”

While the drink boasts a rich history and is deeply respected for its symbolism and ceremony, its growing popularity has undoubtedly breathed new life into it. Leah says that at a recent family get-together, her cousins drank saké with fresh lemon juice, topped up with soda water. And while on a recent trip to Seoul, she noticed the trend was to pour a shot of saké into a small glass, then top it up with beer. It seems that we’re only just scratching the surface of saké appreciation! 

What does the future hold?

Andrew believes that as more people become acquainted with saké, we’ll see greater creativity and a blurring of boundaries between sweet and savoury. “We not only use saké in our cocktails at La Petite Colombe, but I, as a chef, enjoy incorporating it into cooking. It adds a new complexity to dishes that red or white wine can’t achieve. I think the versatility of saké will keep it relevant for many years to come. Guests these days want an experience – not just to fuel their bodies, but to make memories. When ordering saké, they seek the tradition that comes with it: drinking from an authentic porcelain choko and savouring it like a fine wine at the beginning of their meal.”

 

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Jennifer says that as saké gains popularity worldwide, we’ll see a rise in new breweries emerging on foreign soil, reflecting a growing global appreciation for the beverage. 

Leah hopes to see saké being consumed more and more in the home, as an alternative to wine or beer. As consumers become more accustomed to seeing it in supermarkets, this will be a natural progression. 

Cassandra says it’s going to be up to establishments who serve different types of saké to further engage with their consumers and create an interest in its traditional uses and ways of service. 

Keen to try more saké when you’re out? You should be able to find it at a good Japanese or sushi restaurant, where some even have saké sommeliers. You can even take courses on saké through The International Wine Education Centre.

As more people discover its versatility and complex flavour profiles, the appreciation for saké is poised to grow even further. This rise in popularity promises not only new opportunities for enjoyment, but also a deeper understanding of the cultural significance behind this storied drink.

Images: Bruce Tuck