Review: La Colombe in Constantia

Monday, December 4th, 2023

Food
This institution on Cape Town’s fine-dining scene needs almost no introduction. A consistent award-winner, both locally and internationally, the restaurant is situated at the top of a winding road on Silvermist Estate, with expansive views over the Constantia Valley towards the sea in the distance. The food is fine dining at its best, executed with impeccable precision and attention to detail. The experience unfolds as you enter the restaurant, where you are greeted by a display of playful canapés and invited to select one to begin your journey through the menu – it’s like something out of Alice in Wonderland. As you descend into the dining room, the view over the trees and vineyards opens up and you feel as if you’re floating above the treetops.

The chef’s menu commences with bread and charcuterie, with the bread serving admirably as a vehicle for the showy spread – it’s a triumph of technique and flavour. The legendary tuna La Colombe is fresh and delicious, and now prepared tableside, which adds a little theatre to this menu stalwart. It’s served in a stylish can that diners open themselves – a pleasantly whimsical touch. Namibian crab, game fish and nam jim bring together delicate textures in a pastry case, offering complex flavours that are beautifully presented. A quail-and-crayfish roulade is enhanced by vegetables of perfect texture, with the sweetness of corn pairing perfectly with the delicate flavour of the crayfish. Karoo Wagyu is served with a rich artichoke mousse and indulgent local truffles, with the perfectly cooked meat being the standout here. The simply titled cheese-and-honey course more than lives up to its name, with outstanding local produce being honoured with the elements, including baked cheese and raclette, impressively executed. Vegetarian guests needn’t feel neglected; the vegetarian chef’s menus deliver an offering of equal excellence.

Drinks
The excellent, knowledgeable sommelier is on hand to make personal recommendations from the extensive, well-curated wine list, with wines available for pairing with each dish on the menu, or by the bottle or carafe. There are also non-alcoholic cocktails and drinks available. Service here is enthusiastic and professional.

Service
The service matches the restaurant’s atmosphere: calm, professional, attentive and friendly.

Ambience
The ambience is what you’d expect here: serene and comfortable but never stiff, with views of the outdoors adding to the experience. The new wine cellar is a beautiful addition to the space, with fine ceramics and glassware completing the package.