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Feed your soul in Kalk Bay, Cape Town

Few people fail to be seduced by the charm of Kalk Bay, Cape Town’s littlest village by the sea. With a tiny harbour at its heart and a short stretch of quaint shop-lined street and accompanying alleyways as its spine, a visit here is food for the soul.

Wandering the nooks and crannies and browsing through vintage stores (try The Whatnot & Chinatown – 021 788 1823 – for pretty mismatched tableware) is bound to have you work up an appetite and happily you’ve come to the right place, because Kalk Bay is a foodie’s dream.

Perhaps the most famous foodie haunt is Olympia Café & Deli (021 788 6396) – the landmark laidback eatery situated on a corner just opposite the harbour. This is where chef Kenneth McClarty has been doing his thing for nearly ten years – serving up café style fare with flair. Olympia is all about no frills – don’t expect a pristine space, it’s grubby, and there’s no booking system so expect a bit of a wait if you go there on a weekend (the newly opened bakery around the corner is a must visit to stock up on their famous ciabatta and buttery croissants).

If you’re looking for something a little smarter, visit the newly opened Winesense (021 788 1869) on the Main Road at The Majestic Village. Buy your ticket to an informed wine tasting, then settle down to a European-flavoured light meal with your wine of choice.

On the other side of the road lies Cape to Cuba and the adjoining Che Bar (021 788 1566). Situated right on the railway line and overlooking the harbour, the food here is South American with an undeniable South African flavour – take a look around you too, every item of furniture (much of it from Cuba) you see is for sale.

One thing’s a given when you’re in Kalk Bay and that’s a visit to the harbour. This tiny haven from the sea is filled with colour and character – from the local fishermen hauling in their catch to the vibrant conversations of the ladies who clean the fish and the chatter between the amateur fishermen and women who line the walls, ever hopeful.

Che There are a few dining options in the harbour: buy your own to take home (you’re virtually guaranteed of freshness and the satisfaction of cooking something just caught can’t be beaten), visit Kalky’s (021 788 1726) for the real deal in fish and chips, go to the Polana (021 788 7162) for a taste of Mozambican-Portuguese inspired seafood, Live Bait (021 788 5755) for sushi and no fuss (but tasty) menu options and Harbour House (021 788 4133) for a stylish sun splashed lunch or romantic moonlit dinner.

What makes each of these eateries special is the view – with Kalky’s it’s just a short trip to the harbour wall before settling down to munch while gazing out to sea and each of the three restaurants are blessed with a superb vista of the big blue beyond.

Harbour Of course there are other spots that have to be tried too. Café Matisse (021 788 1123) is a Kalk Bay institution and locals swear by their pizzas – it’s also a great place to soak up the Bohemian atmosphere that defines Kalk Bay over coffee and a slice of cake.

Those with a penchant for interactive dining will do well to book a table for dinner along with their ticket to a show at The Kalk Bay Theatre (021 788 7257). Situated in an old church, this intimate theatre is a bastion of local talent. Diners settle down to their starters and mains before the show, after which they make their way back up to the restaurant (overlooking the stage) for dessert and coffee.

Also in this part of Kalk Bay (towards St James) is Café des Artes (021 788 5270). This tiny restaurant is a popular dining destination and fills up with lively chatter most nights a week (it’s also open for breakfast and lunch). The chalkboard menu features chef Chris Hoffmann’s modern take on rustic fare and always features something deliciously fresh from the harbour.

Meander Kalk Bay is a Cape Town anomaly – a place that has escaped the onslaught of malls, where a sense of community is tangible and where honest-to-good food and its enjoyment is the centre of many a resident’s and visitor’s experience.

Words Vicki Sleet

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