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Gourmet zone: Soweto

Whether it’s mogodu and samp at Sakhumzi’s or umqushu and sour porridge at Wandie’s Place, dining in Soweto is an experience of a lifetime.

As one of South Africa’s most populous urban residential areas, Soweto is a cosmopolitan melting pot with a troublesome but fascinating past. Add some vibrant city culture and loads of African tradition and you get a vibe that is unique to the Rainbow Nation.

Deciding where to dine isn’t easy as the diverse restaurant scene is as colourful as its history. But one thing is certain – once you’ve tasted sizzling Soweto, you’ll know that it’s an experience worth repeating. Here are five authentic eateries that are well worth visiting:

B’s museum restaurant
What started out as just a meeting place where Beatrice’s friends would gather and have a couple of drinks, has gone through major transformation to become one of Soweto’s most well-known restaurants. B’s is not your average eatery though; it’s a museum restaurant that tells the story of South Africa’s fascinating recent past (from as far back as the late 70’s) through newspaper clippings on its walls. But it it’s not only the history that has people talking – the menu is truly representative of Soweto with day-to-day kasi food like tini, chakalaka, chicken feet, bunny chow and homemade ginger beer on offer. Call 011 935 1766.

Masakeng
The annual Soweto beer festival, which takes place over a three-day period in October, is hosted and owned by the popular Masakeng. This intimate pub-style restaurant’s has a laid-back atmosphere and is favoured by sports fanatics. Traditional mogodu and pap or samp is a favourite among tourist groups, but if its true Sowetan tastes youre after, try the kasi-style braai. Call 011 982- 034.

Nambitha’s eatery
If you’re looking for a slightly more modern dining experience in Soweto then Nambitha’s is the place to head for. It offers a wide selection of the best wines from around the country to compliment the great variety of western and African dishes on the menu (Nambitha’s traditional chicken comes highly recommended). It is a firm favourite with locals and is the ideal spot for tourists to dine township style. Call 011-936 9128

Located a few houses away from Nelson Mandela’s family home on Vilakazi Street, is Sakhumzi’s restaurant. Here, mogodu and samp (reportedly Nelson Mandela’s favourite dish) perfectly washed down with umqomboti (zulu traditional beer) has found its way into almost every tourists heart and stomach. The restaurant’s location, and the ability to easily accommodate up to 400 people, makes it a firm favourite amongst tour groups. Call 011 939 4427.

Wandie’s Place is one of Soweto’s biggest and probably longest surviving restaurants.
The ambience is typically township and the menu reflects the cuisines from various South African ethnic groups – there’s potjiekos, brijani, umqushu and sour porridge, as well as samp and mutton curry. Apart from the authentic kasi food, one of the most prominent features is the special wall on which there are over a million signed business cards and paper money from international and local customers (high profile personalities like Will Smith, Quincy Jones, and Brad Pitt have been known to dine here). Look out for Wandie’s new branch at O.R Tambo International. Call 011-326 1700.

Words and images: Nomathemba Maseko

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