Despite the fact that thousands of holiday makers flock to Durban every summer, this major port city has remained somewhat of a dark horse.  Unlike Cape Town and Jo’burg, who seem to be forever clamouring for their fair share of air time, Durban still manages to slip underneath the radar for most of the year. Is this because of the laid-back, rather unassuming atmosphere of the city? Or is it due to the laissez faire attitude of its inhabitants?

We suspect it’s a very sly trick of city and citizens alike to keep the funky, almost underground cool of enigmatic Durbs exclusively for Durbanites…

In an attempt to get to the culinary heart of the city, explore the famous Florida Road: a perfect sample of cosmopolitan Durban’s varied, vibrant cultural conglomeration. With over thirty restaurants in this bustling, architecturally beautiful historic road, just walking down the street can be a sensual pleasure.

Start with all things Thai at Bangkok Wok (Call 031 201 8557). With a kitchen run by Thai chefs, authenticity and delicate flavour combinations are ensured in all dishes. The very reasonably priced food is served in a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere by a host of young waiters. Here, Duck is the speciality – whether you like it sweet, spicy, savoury or curried. And when the locals recommend the chicken, prawn and calamari on a bed of crispy (yes crispy!) spinach, listen to them. Have lunch outside on their uncovered patio and soak up some of those winter rays – a little vitamin D is a welcome addition to any meal.

Still on the subject of Thai, Mo’s Noodles (Call 031 312 4193) is a firm favourite, with food that simply screams summer, regardless of the season. Everything is fresh, colourful, healthy, tasty and served with flair. The décor is minimalist but still manages to be warm and open. Mo’s do a lot of green curries and coconut milk is a popular ingredient, but their speciality is calamari, grilled with chilli and lime. Piquant and oh-so-zesty. Team this up with half a lentil and feta salad and you’ve got a perfectly balanced and deliciously nutritious lunch. (If lentils aren’t your thing,  try the prawn and seasonal fruit salad.)

Besides seafood, Durban is famous for its curries, and for the authentic South African Indian type you simply have to stop at the Sunrise House of Curries (Call 031 303-6076). Here you’ll get the true Durban curry experience while enjoying the vibrant Indian atmosphere. They are famous for their bunnies and rotis, with bean and cheese as a current favourite.

Spiga d’Oro (Call 031-303 9511/2) is probably one of pulsating Florida Road’s busiest places. And deservedly so – their traditional Italian cuisine continue to delight hundreds of Durbanites every week. The Spaghetti al Cartoccio (spaghetti prepared with garlic and a hint of chilli, wrapped in foil with the freshest of seafood and baked in the pizza oven) will have you more excited about pasta than you’ve been in years. And the lively pavement atmosphere is funky and fun. Be prepared to wait for a table (they are really busy) but it’s definitely worth it.

Tucked away behind Spiga d’Oro is the rather aptly named Spice (Call 031-303 6375). Chef-owner Linda Govender combines Eastern (Indian) and Western influences in a subtle marriage of technique and taste to create something truly unique. The atmosphere is casual and intimate – the perfect setting to enjoy the carefully prepared flavour-rich dishes. Chef Linda’s personal favourite is roast duck salad with cumin and port-marinated orange segments, served with a fig dressing. Spice is moving to a different location around October. But there’s no need to panic. Instead, go look them up in a renovated Victorian on Windermere Road.

If you enjoy a truly upmarket experience, then head to Society (Call 031-312 3213/1). Located in a gorgeous old colonial, with décor that is eclectic, deliciously glamorous and over-the-top, it’s the perfect place for a romantic dinner or an evening rubbing shoulders with the city’s young and beautiful. They make a rose Mojito that will have your toes curling with pleasure, and a varied menu with anything from Asian tapas and sushi, to fillet and venison with a whole bunch of truly wicked desserts will ensure a delightfully decadent evening.

The Brasserie at Quarters (Call 031-303 5246) is the stylish restaurant of the stately Quarters Hotel, where head chef Gareth Lawler provides an elegant and varied menu which guests can enjoy while lounging in the sunny courtyard. They’re open from breakfast right through tea, lunch, cocktails and dinner with appropriate menu options – so arrive at any time and be welcomed by the friendly staff. 

Heard enough? Amazingly, this is but the tip of the iceberg, as Florida Road is home to host of other restaurants and friendly eateries. Next time you find yourself in effervescent Durban, be sure to take a lengthy culinary detour down this wonderful street.

Lili Radloff