The simple pleasures of travelling by train – the slow chug of steel wheels against winding tracks, an open landscape through every portal, and unashamedly opulent interiors. At the centre of this genteel universe is the dining car.

A trip on the Rovos Rail, Blue Train, or the Premier Classe is not just a means of transport, but a decadent, epicurean journey. Picture Karoo lamb chops with a saucy reduction and a bottle of pinotage for dinner. Or, for breakfast, Knysna oysters and a glass of bubbly, slurped down while watching the South African landscape flash by. These gently rocking restaurants hark back to an era when the linen was crisp and the silverware heavy. 

Rovos Rail calls itself the most luxurious train in the world – and with good reason. This grand old iron horse has been decked out in Edwardian style that’s both elegant and whimsical. This sumptuous setting is the backdrop to five-course meals that reflect the South African landscape the train travels through. Dine on treats such as pan-fried rainbow trout with onion marmalade, or ostrich fillet with apple chutney. And, for dessert, a dark chocolate potjie filled with light chocolate mousse.

On the numerous different routes, travellers have the opportunity to try out local restaurants on stopovers. For example, on the Cape to Victoria Falls route, the train stops over in Pretoria. Here weary guests can satisfy their hunger at various top establishments. Be inspired by the innovative use of African ingredients cooked with French techniques at 643 at The Sheraton. And when the train stops at Victoria Falls, explore grand dining at the Livingstone Room in the Victoria Falls Hotel.

It’s all aboard the Blue Train for a banquet of the senses. The culinary team’s focus is on fresh, locally sourced produce. Dinner is a dressy affair; men wear black tie and the ladies elegant attire. The onus here is on service. Smartly dressed waiters are on hand to attend to your every whim—each coach also has a butler on call.

Dine on ostrich fillet paired with Meerlust Rubicon, if you so choose. Or organic lamb, with a distinctive flavour of herbs, a by-product of the grazing habits of the Karoo lamb. After dinner, travellers can retire to the wood-panelled lounge for cognac and cigars.

When travelling north, the train stops at the historical village of Matjiesfontein. Try the famous Karoo lamb curry at the Lord Milner Hotel, or relax with a refreshing ale in the authentic Laird’s Arm Pub.

Premier Classe is on the right track when it comes to dishing up moving meals. In the dining car the menu constantly evolves and changes. Expect dainty lunches of smoked trout and leek terrine. Dinners are heartier, with five-course menus featuring traditional fare such as roast leg of lamb. In the afternoons, ladies can take high tea in their luxury rooms – think hot cups of Earl Grey and wafer-thin cucumber sandwiches.

The route between Cape Town and Johannesburg also offers on-board spa treatments – the first spa on a train in Africa. Unfortunately none of Premier Classe’s stopovers allow for off-board culinary adventures, but if you take the Hoedspruit route, the train will drop you right at Sleeper’s Restaurant. After your fine-dining odyssey, you might enjoy the casual charm of this leafy railway oasis. Tuck into the house speciality of Cape Dutch chicken, ham and egg pie with yellow rice and blatjang.

For those who prefer to eat while remaining stationary, hop onto the Atlantic Express in Sea Point. This iconic blue train is sandwiched between two buildings. It never leaves the station yet it’s always on a journey – a culinary one, that is.

By Malu Lambert