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Seasonal palate

Having recently moved to South Africa from London, I’ve been surprised at how cold this country can get. So too apparently were the groups of teeth-chattering tourists I spotted walking around in shorts during THAT football event, displaying their nobbly snow white legs. How do you cope without central heating?

Luckily we seem to be slowly moving into spring. But the experience of wine-tasting trips to the Swartland and Worcester, when I was amazed to see snow on the mountains, got me thinking about how different seasons, weather and moods can affect how you taste and appreciate wine.

Have you ever wondered why a glass of chilled dry sherry tastes amazing with a pile of seafood by a Spanish beach somewhere, but take it home and it’s dull as dishwater? Or when you are down in the dumps and it’s freezing outside, all you crave is a glass (or two) of aged port in front of the fire?

There are many factors that can affect how we taste wine, including mood, what food we are eating, smoking and even pregnancy. Perhaps the most relevant are the five senses we use to appreciate wine: sight, smell, taste, touch and sound. (Doesn’t the pop of the cork and the sound of the champagne fizzing just get your tastebuds watering in anticipation?)

The more in tune we are with our senses, the more we can appreciate what we are drinking. A great wine engages with all of our senses. It’s what chef Heston Blumenthal, of the Michelin-starred Fat Duck in the UK, calls the “psychological side of food”. In other words, our appreciation of food or wine depends on factors such as context and emotions.

There are two exciting trends in South African winemaking that have really struck a chord with me as we move from winter to spring. The first of these is the new-style Shiraz that is being produced, particularly in the Swartland, and the second is white blends.

When it’s cold, there is nothing I feel like doing more than curling up with a blanket and a glass of fantastic South African Shiraz, or Syrah as it is known in the Rhône region of France where it reaches its epitome. South African producers such as Kloovenburg, Scali, Mullineux and the Winery of Good Hope are impressing with new elegant styles of Shiraz, sometimes with a dash of other French varieties added in for good measure. They are a far cry from the head-bangingly alcoholic, stewed fruit varieties that so-called ‘New World’ countries such as SA and Australia became famed for in the past. More of a soft and soothing caress than a full-on snog that leaves you feeling dazed and confused!

Winter calls for a deeper, more rounded style of white wine. While a crisp varietal wine such as a Sauvignon Blanc or a rosé may be perfect for sunny climes, personally I think white blends are more suitable as we move into spring. They are some of the most creative, exciting wines coming out of the Cape.

Producers such as A.A. Badenhorst, Vondeling, Miles Mossop, Quoin Rock and Sterhuis, and bigger brands such as Nederburg with its Ingenuity white, are able to express their art by blending varieties such as Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Vioginer, Grenache Blanc and Semillon. One word of warning – be prepared to spend just a little bit more as white blends at the lower end can sometimes be just an excuse to get rid of any old excess wines gathering dust in the cellar.

Five winter warmers

The Winery of Good Hope, Black Rock Red Blend 2007

This blend of Shiraz, Carignan, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Viognier from Swartland is a complex and lively blend with notes of mulberry, spice and lavender.  Gorgeous.

Kloovenburg Shiraz 2007

Striking ruby colour. Perfume, violets, sweet spice and dark fruit on the nose. Perfectly balanced and elegant with a fantastic structure, silky tannins and integrated use of oak.

 

A.A. Badenhorst white blend 2007

Lovely, savoury white with an unusual herbal quality from this maverick producer. A complicated wine with depth and richness, balanced by a gorgeous freshness.

 

Sterhuis Astra White 2007

One third each of  Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay. Lashings of minerality, perfume, great weight and richness, complexity.

 

Vondeling Babiana 2007

Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier and Grenache Blanc. Moreishly complex and leftfield with waxy, creamy notes together with hints of ginger, blossom, white pepper and pear.

 

 

 

 

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