I used to find the allure of a new restaurant irresistible. The heady joy of discovering a chef, having your palate reawakened with a remarkable combination of flavours, the seductive surroundings… I have now become a little more discerning. Instead, I find an almost illicit thrill from eating at a time-honoured restaurant, often tucked away in the suburbs, that continues to offer fabulous fare.

Remo’s is like a homecoming. The restaurant is successful not only because it draws patrons from the exclusive gated enclave of Mount Edgecombe in KwaZulu-Natal, but because it has integrity, from the genuine smiles of waiters to food that is always freshly prepared. According to executive chef Clifford Barratt, their success relies on three elements: Italian, simplicity and homemade. ‘If I could grow tomatoes for our sauces, I would! The flapjacks and gnocchi are made from scratch. What brings you here if I buy the same stuff from a supplier as another restaurant? You are paying for a service and the service is that it’s made here.’

Remo’s was opened in 2007 by school friends Renzo Scribante and Jonathan “Boonie” Bryan. Cliff completes the trio and their hands-on approach at front of house and in the kitchen makes for a seamless dining experience. Referring to themselves as the Remo fratelli (brothers), the family includes a driven staff of 40.

It’s all in the detail. Ex-barista and now manager Ed Khumalo has visited the Lavazza factory and top coffee shops in Italy; there are no shortcuts in the kitchen; staff know regular customers by name; the eclectic selection of music entices people to linger longer and the décor captures that perfect Italian style. It’s a balance of comfort and class as classic black and white checked floors and chandeliers are paired with a leather-clad bar, comfy wicker armchairs and the obligatory family photos on the walls.

The owners openly show their gratitude to restaurants that have inspired them, so expect to find an Ile de Pain breakfast (beans, poached eggs and baby spinach served on Poilâne), a Balthazar open sandwich (an Italian roll topped with tapenade, tomato, aubergine, peperonata sauce and shaved Parmesan) or the ever-popular River Café pasta that sees prawn tails sautéed with baby marrow, white wine, tomato paste, chilli, cream and a squeeze of lemon.

In true Italian style, Renzo’s mom has ‘donated’ some family recipes and it’s hard to beat the satisfaction of items like the Joey Tribbiani sandwich, which combines home-made meatballs with mama’s tomato sauce and melted mozzarella on ciabatta. Equal parts of Italian precision and passion are also applied to pizzas with perfectly thin bases and gently blistered borders – the ultimate gratification is the one that combines sausage (handmade and cured in Renzo’s dad’s cellar), fresh sage, caramelised onions and fontina cheese.

But don’t be lulled into pizza and pasta mode – the bistro-styled specials have serious foodie cred. ‘Milanese white tripe (in a bean and tomato broth) is my pièce de résistance,’ says Cliff excitedly. ‘Everyone told me I wouldn’t sell it. You ask 10 people but maybe one person will take it. I am so happy to have something like that on the menu in Durban. With items like bagnette (white anchovies marinated in white wine vinegar, olive oil, parsley and a little chilli then served on ciabatta with Grana Padano and red pepper) I tell people, “Trust me, if you don’t like it, it’s on me!”’

In 2009 Remo’s opened its own bakery, mostly spurred on by Renzo’s (Italian) dad’s complaints about the lack of good bread. Since starting with a limited repertoire consisting of the humble ciabatta and croissants, they now produce an array of breads – running the gauntlet from rye to miche Poilâne – and are also supplying other discerning restaurants. ‘Bread has been a big education. A guy bought a ciabatta here and came back and said, “This has got holes in it!”’ says Cliff, still a little amazed. Other baked goods include gingerbread people, brownies and almond-and-raspberry slices, and the astute have discovered that Remo’s bread is also for sale at The Food Market at Durban’s Hellenic Centre.

The longstanding love affair between Remo’s and locals continues. The fratelli, always reviewing and reinventing, have more than a passing passion for growing their family, starting in Jozi. Watch this space…

By Tracy Gielink