The sight of a tree covered in fragrant fruit blossom, or broad beans standing proud and tall, laden with fat pods which carefully hold emerald green beans, makes my heart skip a beat with the hope of possessing an urban garden very soon.

On Sunday I honoured a month-old booking at Mariana's out in Stanford. It was a glorious day and the kitchen was busy. Zig zag-edged pappardelle – homemade, of course – hung on rods to dry and bundles of bread sticks were piled up high. Later, they found themselves in my bowl, smothered in a light springbok ragù.

Sitting outside, I was amongst the mulberry trees dripping with the first of the season’s crimson fruit, granadillas hiding behind their thick leaves, and tons of gooseberries. Peter, Mariana's husband, enticed me to have the duck ham: thin slices of duck, ever so gently cured in salt, with a delicious salad of white, flat sandveld beans and a perfectly balanced apricot and raisin chutney. (This reminds me: do try the rabbit ham at The Test Kitchen.)

After I nibbled on a few more dishes cooked with such honesty, the garden dessert arrived, made up of their very own freshly picked produce. A scoop of mulberry sorbet was very moreish, as were the little granadilla tart and glass of creamy gooseberry fool. I can still taste the stalks of the mulberry that came through in the icy delight. What a treat! A very special place.

Happy eating
Abigail

Photo: Richard Wood and Mariana’s