It might not be the most prepossessing of meals, but it’s hard to resist a steaming roosterkoek, fresh off the coals. Harking back to those warm nights braaing on the beach, the humble roosterkoek is taking advantage of the current trend for foodie nostalgia, and enjoying its own moment in the limelight in Stellenbosch.
 
“It’s a good old traditional food; back to basics”, explains friendly owner Simon Matthysen, who owned a pub in Swellendam before opening up De Stomme Jonge, the country’s first restaurant serving exclusively roosterkoeke. (Simon's late mother was involved in Swellendam's Old Gaol restaurant, where roosterkoeke still appear on the menu alongside a range of other heritage food).

The food:
Situated on Stellenbosch’s bustling Ryneveld Street, the roosterkoeke are baked twice a day, on a shining red gas braai on the restaurant’s stoep beside the red and white checked tablecloths.
“It’s the only way,” says Simon.
You can either order a cheeseboard, and get your piping hot roosterkoek ready-sliced with a variety of combinations of cheeses, charcuterie and jams, or order one of the readymade roosterkoek sarmies. These are gourmet roosterkoeke. Try Harry die Strandloper (rocket, biltong, cheddar and apricot jam), Jan van Riebeeck (rocket, three cheeses and jam), or Eva Krotoa van die Kaap (rocket, salami and brie). The roosterkoeke themselves are exemplary specimens: full of yeasty flavor without being too heavy.

The mood:
“I wanted to own a bar or a restaurant where people could enjoy themselves without the load noise, and just have a relaxed time”, Simon explains. At the cosy bar area inside, filled with hip clutter, the crowd is made up of a friendly stream of regulars, most of whom are not students.

The service:
Friendly, relaxed and swift.

The booze:
Simon has only recently got his liquor license, so the formal wine list is still under construction, though there is certainly wine to be had at present.

The verdict?
A great little spot for lunch or dinner with plenty of options to keep you interested. A big thumbs up for roosterkoeke.

By Katharine Jacobs