Sometimes you come across a restaurant that you feel should have been part of your ‘any day of the week, at least once a week’ arsenal a long time ago. Josephine’s Cookhouse in Newlands (Josie’s, to the regulars) is such a place.

The people
From the creators of Societi Bistro and Societi Brasserie comes the warm and inviting Italian lass, Josie, set in the historic Josephine’s Mill building next to SAB breweries. The relaxed yet stylish environment draws a mixed bag crowd of beer executives, middle-aged locals, city slickers and trust-fund students. Not that they need their trust funds here: the restaurant is remarkably affordable.

The food
The menu highlights hearty Italian fare at its best, with a variety of snacky and antipasti options if you’re just coming for a drink, as well as more substantial pasta and pizza if you’re planning on staying longer. A snappy list of seasonal ingredients on the one wall makes sure that you know what to order when.

Starters include a delectable cauliflower and cheese soufflé and roasted bone marrow on grilled sourdough. From the ‘dough room’ comes the most incredible Roman-style baked semolina gnocchi with a brown butter, sage and Parmesan sauce and spaghetti with all sorts of toppings, including a yummy roast butternut, balsamic and crème fraîche number). Pastas are cleverly available in two portion sizes.

The wood-fired, hand-crafted pizzas are sublime. With thin crusts and a modest amount of mozzarella, the toppings are the heroes. My vote goes to the Blanco, with Taleggio, mozzarella and goats’ cheese.

Cookhouse favourites range from a robust beef burger (served with fat hand-cut chips) and free-range lamb chops to parsnip risotto and free-range rib-eye steak. If you have space for dessert, go for the lemon tart.

The drinks
The wine list is varied and more than sufficient, with all the major varietals represented. It’s also incredibly well-priced – the most expensive red comes in at R268.

The design
Since Caveau has left the building, things have changed a bit. New furniture, new floors, new warmth. The wood-burning fireplace adds the necessary in winter, as does the patio overlooking the Liesbeek River (accessible through large glass doors) in summer.

The service
Spot on. Friendly, efficient and knowledgeable.

The verdict
Unless you’re gluten-intolerant (and your options therefore severely limited), there’s no reason why you shouldn’t go. As casual Italian eateries go, this one is a keeper.

By Anelde Greeff