It’s hard to imagine the Umhlanga restaurant strip without Remo’s. Nestled in the heart of the village in what was for decades the Umhlanga Rocks Supply Store premises, it has an Italian heart, European vibe and New York attitude.

The café opened last month – with that elusive instant success that neither money, talent, nor location can guarantee – and has been overflowing ever since. The entrance is flanked by a pavement rostrum (which allows alert managers to monitor the inevitable queue) and a trademark Vespa. Inside, a gorgeous bar inspired by that of Balthazar in New York begs for you to pull up a stool and order a cocktail. It runs along the back of the restaurant, which comprises three distinct spaces: the interior that teams wooden tables with red leather banquette and booth seating; a covered deck; and a small outside courtyard.

When hands-on owner Renzo Scribante, with his 60s-style good looks and instinctive business acumen, unassumingly dons an apron, you’d be forgiven for thinking he was one of the staff. Remo’s Villaggio is the successor to the original Mount Edgecombe restaurant, and Renzo, having finally opened this restaurant in October after nine months of renovation, is tired but happy. The response has been phenomenal and he’s already looking for premises on the KZN North Coast and in Johannesburg, although he is adamant he won’t franchise.

Remo’s is an extension of Renzo’s Italian roots. Black and white family photos adorn the walls, and his mother has donated recipes and is responsible for most of the large oil paintings on display. In fact, the opening of the bakery was precipitated by his father’s complaints of not being able to find good bread.

The restaurant is called Remo’s Fratelli (Italian for brother) and the family concept is not just lip service. Chef Clifford Barratt has grown with the business and now focuses on running the restaurants with Renzo. Completing the management trio is Eddie Khumalo, who worked his way up from barista to the head of food and the kitchen.  

Manned by an army of well-trained staff, who are equipped with a ready smile and an ear-piece linking them to the efficient kitchen, Remo’s successfully manages to be all things to all people. The best breakfasts in town range from a deceptively simple homemade croissant to a Benedict interpreted with ciabatta, Parma ham, a minted hollandaise and rocket.

The menu pays tribute to places and people that inspire Renzo and Cliff, like the Joey Tribbiani meatball-laden sandwich, River Café pasta, and Île de Païn breakfast. Hand-stretched pizzas are legendary and the Italian influence extends to pastas, too. Try the rigatoni with braised lamb, onion, tomato, veal stock and rosemary, or the back-to-basics lasagne. Antipasti ranges from an arugula salad with parmesan shavings to carpaccio and melt-in-the-mouth calamari, while main courses include traditional dishes like veal limone and melanzane, along with contemporary classics like a pear and gorgonzola salad or gourmet burger. And there is no compromising – dishes are prepared from scratch using quality ingredients.  

The old-fashioned deli, complete with a bell that tinkles when the door is opened, is a small space brimming with epicurean treats. Artisan breads, from the humble ciabatta to mini brioche, are obscenely popular, backed up with other baked goods like New York cheesecake and pain au chocolat.

Ready-made meals are available, along with foodie essentials like tinned tomatoes, truffle oil and the soon-to-be-launched homemade Italian sausages and fresh pasta. Wooden shelves are filled with drying pasta – a different pasta will be available every day – ranging from oodles of fusilli to nests of tagliatelle. For instant gratification, pick up your freshly brewed coffee to go, or one of their old-school classic sandwiches or frozen yoghurt with a choice of toppings.

Renzo talks passionately about reverting to old restaurant values, which means a dress code, and no TVs playing sport incessantly. Considering Durban’s laidback lifestyle and dress sense, the banning of caps, vests and slops after 6pm caused an initial backlash. Renzo is unrelenting and feels that enforcing an evening dress code will ensure high standards. “We want to be a grand café that’s still here in 20 years. I don’t mean to sound arrogant. Everyone always complains there is nowhere nice to go in Durban. Here it is, so don’t complain now!”

In the current economic climate, eating out is no longer just about the food. Diners expect an all-encompassing experience and at Remo’s Villaggio it’s all in the detail. If that means you need to sacrifice your pair of slops to appease your palate, it’s a small price to pay.

Have you been to Remo’s in Umhlanga? Let us know about your experience here.

By Tracy Gielink