Owners Simon Ash and Hilton Nagel began with a vision: well-prepared food sourced from local land and sea, served with more panache than pomp in an easy-going, stylish environment. Simon’s past endeavours include classy Plett establishments like Brothers Restaurant and Fifty 7 Kloof, so it’s no surprise that The Fat Fish is already a success with locals and visitors. This is also because there’s something for everyone, from couples seeking a romantic sundowner spot for bubbly and tapas, to families looking for good food at decent prices.

Food
Fish and seafood dominate the menu (amusingly printed as a newspaper), but there’s enough variety to please everyone. Those with a taste for grazing can happily sink their teeth into a long list of tasty tapas. There’s nothing overly exotic, but raves go to vegetable spring rolls with Asian dipping sauce; pan-fried filled calamari in caper sauce; Fat Fish cakes with avocado salsa; mezze and charcuterie platters; and excellent fresh sushi. A refreshing winter salad of butternut and beetroot dressed in citrus vinaigrette makes a lovely beginning, but a heartier option from the salads and starters menu might be beef carpaccio-delicate slices of filet contrasted with creamy, warm camembert and sparked with a dollop of red onion marmalade.

You can never go wrong with grilled freshly caught hake or line fish paired with herby steamed baby potatoes, but for something a bit different, the hake en papillote is delicate and juicy, steamed with leeks, celery and mushrooms. Those hankering for bolder flavours might try kingklip infused with smoked chilli butter in a crispy crust of parmesan breadcrumbs and served with homey hand-cut chips.

Meat lovers can select from the grill menu – rib eye, rump steak or baked chicken breast – or opt for tapas like ham and cheese croquettes with sweet red pepper sauce, or chicken livers in a spicy red sauce.

Finish with something tantalisingly rich from the brief dessert menu, such as cardamom-scented pot au chocolate with liquor-flamed oranges, or banana fritters decked out with homemade vanilla ice cream and nougat sauce.

Specials here usually mean special effort and, often, good value for money. For example, one lunch special consists of an excellent layered vegetable terrine served with herb salad.

While kids have their own menu, more adventurous young eaters might find the tapas portions just right for a meal.

Wine
The Fat Fish loyalty to local extends to the wine list, where vineyards in and around Plett are well represented. Sprinkled among more countrywide favourites are Bramon’s splendid MCC 2008; award-winning sauvignon blanc from LuKa; newcomer Newstead’s chardonnay; Jakkalsvlei cabernet sauvignon; Herold’s flagship pinot noir; and lesser-known but quite drinkable Garden Route shiraz. A generous number of wines can be ordered by the glass, and mark-ups on bottles are moderate.

Service
The bright-eyed and knowledgeable staff are part of a fun loving, well-organised team led by hands-on Simon Ash. Everyone seems genuinely pleased to represent The Fat Fish and do what they can to make sure your experience is agreeable. On most nights the waiting staff and the kitchen manage to keep things coming to the table at a reasonable pace, so that even large parties are handled with aplomb.

Ambience
Clean lines, cool natural colours and interesting details contribute to the appeal of this spacious dining room. Craggy rocks jut of a back corner, creating a grotto-like feel, while a wall of windows makes the most of the view overlooking Central Beach. The sturdy, modern white plastic tables give the impression of white tablecloths in the warm evening light. In beautiful weather, the outside patio is on demand, where sea air mingles with scrumptious cooking odours. Upon entering, be sure to take notice of the signature wall made of scales carved out of wood – a great touch!

And…
The snazzy cocktail bar offers more than just good looks. Try berry-rich Sally’s Strawberry Daiquiri to commemorate another fabulous day in Plett.

By Charlotte Pregnolato

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