There’s a popular meme went round in early 2012, comparing the perceptions of friends, colleagues, parents and others to what individuals actually do. In the Cape Town version of the meme, all eight frames feature the same picture: a glass of wine, photographed against a beautiful outdoor backdrop. Our chief pursuit in the Mother City, it seems, is the consumption of wine in a beautiful setting.
This must have been what Charles Back realised when he elected to build the Spice Route tasting room a little closer to Cape Town, on the site what used to be the Seidelberg farm. The Spice Route cellar itself is based in Malmesbury, but this new shop-front brings it to just 40 minutes from Cape Town, just short of Back’s other famous wine farm, Fairview.
And in case we needed a little more persuading, there’s also an opportunity to taste beer, biltong, chocolate and grappa, and dine at two restaurants. Sound like the ultimate Capetonian destination? Here’s the skinny on Spice Route.
With the majority of the grapes grown in vineyards just outside Malmesbury, wine-maker Charl du Plessis does his best to draw out the natural characteristics of the Swartland terroir. “It is my responsibility to interfere as little as possible with the grape growing process,” says Charl.
The two red blends – the ripe, fruity Chakalaka (composed of syrah, mourvèdre, carignan, tannat, grenache and petit syrah) and the flagship Malabar (the same varietals minus the carignan, and blended in a dedicated cellar) – have received the most acclaim, although we hear there’s a loyal following for the shiraz too.
The majority of the white grapes, meanwhile, come from vineyards in Darling, as the cooler location is perfect territory for the sauvignon blanc varietal.
A tasting at the Spice Route Tasting Room costs R25 per person for six wines, and the tasting room also offers a chocolate and wine tasting with six wines and four chocolates for R60. Guests can find a table out on the sunny lawn and sip their wines while gazing across the valley to the peaks surrounding Franschhoek.
Book a table outside in front of the restaurant for fabulous views of the mountains and shade under the trees. Marion Kumpf (formerly of Aubergine and O’Ways Tea Café) is at the helm, and turns out contemporary dishes with some surprising flavour combinations, like dukkah-spiced chicken breasts with watermelon and basil salad and sweet corn avocado salsa; duck liver parfait with waterblommetjie and strawberry preserves; or the brandy snap cigars with carrot and white chocolate halva and pistachio ice cream. Our pick of the menu? The warm DV tart au chocolat with marinated stone fruits and lime sorbet. Made with chocolate from the artisan chocolatiers on site, the dessert is supremely rich, dark and fabulous.
Speaking of artisan chocolate, another of the destination’s features is a tutored wine and chocolate tasting, for R100 per person. Guests can taste their way through beautifully packaged and colour-coded chocolates created to match the Spice Route wines. Gorgeously dark with cocoa, the chocolates come in four squares so you have plenty of chance to savour each block with its corresponding wines and contrast it with the others. The staff make the experience educational as well as fun. If you’re just after the chocolate, try the chocolate tasting for R25 or do a full-on chocolate appreciation workshop for R150.
Master distillerer Helmut Wilderer started out making schnapps for his restaurant in Germany before studying the science in Austria. He began producing grappa and schnapps in South Africa in 1994. Since then, he’s scooped up all manner of awards for spirits like his Apple Barrique (made with Golden Delicious apples and aged for nine years), Cape Fynbos Healing Herbs bitter, made with 30 herbs from the Western Cape, and a red pinotage grappa. Pop in to the distillery and see the distillation process in action and taste three of Helmut’s grappas and eaux de vie for R25 or opt for a signature edition tasting for R35.
This more laid-back eatery is one of the big drawcards for families. Groups are invited to sprawl on the grass in the sun or dose in deckchairs under the trees while their children go exploring. Friendly staff wander between the wooden tables to deliver boards bearing tapas or wood-fired pizzas with thin bases and great toppings, including the traditional flammkuchen topped with cream cheese, onion and bacon bits.
Brewmaster Wolfgang Koedel (formerly of the Paulaner Brauhaus) takes craft beer seriously, and it shows. For only R25 for a tasting, hops-lovers will be impressed at the quality of the brews and the knowledgeable attention received from the staff. You are led through four offerings produced by the polished hardware (brought in from Europe) that decorates the building, accompanied by little samples of fresh hops flowers, malt and wheat grain to enhance those properties and aromas in the beer. All the beers on offer are made with Paarl Mountain spring water. Taste and buy the Cape Brewing Company (CBC) pilsner, lager, Krystal Weiss, Amber Weiss and the bighearted Devil lager.
Trade in your glass of wine for a pint of craft beer paired with kudu, beef and springbok biltong at this pub with a view. Pull up a seat outside on yet another sunny lawn with a view, or find a spot inside on chillier days.
Walk it all off with a stroll through the Red Hot Glass store and watch glass blower Liz Lacey and her team in action as they turn out their striking signature vases, bowls, platters and lamps.
The verdict??A one-stop destination for enjoying the finer things in life. Arrive early, bring the kids – or a bunch of friends – and budget a whole day if you want to have time to enjoy several of the tastings. And make sure you take plenty of Instagram pics to make people elsewhere in the country jealous.
By Katharine Jacobs and Linda Scarborough
In the area? Also check out our guide to 20 foodie things to do in Stellenbosch.