Linda Scarborough visits the perennially popular El Burro (one of the top 10 most-viewed restaurants on our site in 2013) to see if the authentic Mexican food lives up to its reputation.

The food

Touting itself as genuine Mexican, the food definitely delivers in authenticity and flavour. Starters of butternut quesadillas have cheesy, creamy fillings with a touch of chilli, a pleasing counterpoint to the accompanying avo-yoghurt dip and sprigs of fresh coriander but, at R50 for two little pockets, work out to be rather pricey beginnings. El Burro’s justifiably popular ceviches come in three versions – line fish (R68), octopus (R89) and farmed Franschhoek salmon trout (R85) – and all are excellent. Delicious chilli popper starters (chilli rellenos) are smoked, not deep-fried, which offsets their cheesy interior beautifully. The three (R50 for the portion) were merely thumb-sized, however, leaving a bit of bitter taste. (Especially since two years ago the same portion was selling for R33, equating to a 51% increase in price.)

The care taken to prepare the variety of main meals is impressive, with options of fresh line fish as well as notable fillings of aged sirloin, Frankie Fenner chorizo, slow-cooked pork shoulder and even free-range goat for the variations on corn and wheat tortillas, plus the usual suspects – through they’re unusually tasty, zingy and fresh – of salsa and guacamole. Most of the dishes are slow-cooked and finished off by baking or frying and served with crunchy side salads, dips and salsas. The pork carnitas (R98) – three corn tortillas topped with spicy tomato sauce, twice-roasted pulled pork and three different salsas – are a tasty, textural delight. Also tempting is the chicken mole (R103), featuring a complex sauce of 32 herbs and spices, almonds and a hint of chocolate.

Three dessert options include dark chocolate fondant, las paletas (Mexican ice pops) and churros with very sugary crusts and a rich, dark chocolate dipping sauce.

The drinks

An array of 20 tequila varieties and almost as many inventive tequila cocktails – try the wild berry and basil margarita – give options beyond the usual frozen jugs, and there are plenty craft beers and a few wines from which to choose. Order the Mexican-inspired hot chocolate for a superbly spicy treat flavoured with cinnamon and almonds, or you could try the horchata, a creamy cold drink made with rice, cinnamon, almonds, lime and sugar.

The ambience

El Burro’s lively atmosphere and quirky décor are definite drawcards. One red wall is adorned with elaborate gilt mirrors with angel wings and curved embellishments; opposite, a wall of wooden shelves supports rows of terra cotta pots and spiky cacti.

However, if you’re unlucky enough to be seated along the built-in booth, you’ll be closer to your neighbours on either side – an elbow-knocking 30cms away – than your dinner companion across the table. Communal eating is all fine and well, but you don’t want to have to smell your neighbours – though we didn’t mind the pleasing aromas of their food.

The service

They’re really quick on the uptake with email reservations and confirming them on the day via telephone. Waitresses, charmingly dressed in Mexican-style garb, are professional and efficient. Little buckets on each table contain plenty of cutlery and serviettes, so you won’t be found wanting once you tuck in.

The verdict

Exciting and beautifully prepared food, warm ambience and great service have kept the El Burro reservations book full every night. While it does feel like you’re paying for the cool factor, there are still so many reasons to keep going back.

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