A pasta dish at Lupa Osteria in Durban North. Photograph courtesy of the restaurant.

The menu at Lupa Osteria in Durban North was devised by chef Chris Black, who has made a name for his Italian food. And although this is a franchise, the kitchen executes his dishes with aplomb, says Eat Out critic Tracy Gielink.

Food

Think starters like pretzel-dusted calamari, carpaccio, or tomato-and-mozzarella risotto cakes served with zucchini fries. Pizzas – made with imported flour and cooked in the wood-fired oven – are exemplary and also come in a gluten-free version. Toppings range from Parma ham, Philly cream cheese and rocket to chorizo, feta, peppadews, chilli and avocado. Pasta is homemade (select a sauce to pair with your choice of pasta) and a trademark dish is the salsicce with Italian fennel sausages, bacon, mushrooms, Chianti and cream. Meaty dishes include veal Marsala and lamb shank, while seafood offerings include kingklip roasted in the pizza oven with lemon, capers, white wine and garlic. Decadent dessert options include the Nutella pizza with ice cream, as well as homemade tiramisu and a salted-popcorn sundae.

A table setting at Lupa Osteria Durban North. Photograph courtesy of the restaurant.

Drinks

A compact but well considered wine list is presented per varietal and provides a balance between value and quality. There’s a small selection of Italian wines and bubblies, plus a range of craft beers.

Service

Professional waiters are prompt, friendly and industrious, giving the right amount of attention without being intrusive. The Lupa kitchen processes orders very efficiently.

The pizza ovens at Lupa Osteria in Durban North. Photograph courtesy of the restaurant.

Ambience

Lupa successfully combines the necessary warmth expected of a neighbourhood eatery with playful contemporary touches. Blonde and almond wood floors and tables (with no formal dressing) are juxtaposed with orange and white metal chairs and exposed brick. The front opens up with large windows that allow local passers-by to peer inquisitively into the perpetually busy restaurant.

And…

The two-course kids’ menu with a cold drink offers good value for money.

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Eat Out critics dine anonymously and pay for their meals in full. Read more about our editorial policy here.