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The past 20 years of food trends

It’s exciting to take a glimpse forward at upcoming trends in the food world, but sometimes it’s even more entertaining to look back. We had a particularly great excuse to do so with our 2018 magazine, the definitive annual guide for where to eat well in SA. As the 20th edition of the guide, the collectors’ issue pays tribute to the last two decades of the local restaurant industry, its highlights, watershed moments and stars.

So join us as we take a trip down memory lane, tracing back the top trends of the past 20 years. Cosmo cocktail, anyone?

1998 – Red Bull, molten chocolate cake and lemon tart

The nostalgia is real with these. Remember when everyone was chugging Red Bull with vodka and the height of dessert was that gooey centre or sharp citrus tart?

1999 – Cosmo cocktails

We have Carrie Bradshaw (from Sex and the City) and her besties to blame for the rise of these hot-pink cocktails. The 1998 TV series set in New York featured frequent scenes of the women sipping the drink made with vodka, triple sec, cranberry juice and lime. Not to mention the iconic scene when Carrie pulls into a fast food drive-through to order one. In fact, it seems Cosmos may be making a comeback.

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2000 – Foams and gels

This was the year molecular gastronomy had tongues wagging, after Spanish Catalan chef Ferran Adrià of elBulli popularised culinary foams. Shortly after came the use of gels, paving the way for innovation like Heston Blumenthal’s Hot and Cold Tea and Wylie Dufresne’s deep-fried Hollandaise-flavoured gel in his deconstructed eggs Benedict. These new techniques intrigued eager palates that were likely still recovering from all those sweet Cosmos.

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2001 – Celebrity chefs

Who can forget the first time we experienced cocky Jamie Oliver in The Naked Chef, Nigella’s sensual descriptions, or Ina Garten’s charming ease? These chefs were beamed into our homes and suddenly made cooking seem damn good fun.

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2002 – Comfort food

Ah, 2002. The year of Christina Aguilera getting Dirrty, Britney Spears trying to act and Michael Jackson dangling his child over a balcony. Is it any wonder that we turned to food for comfort? Mac and cheese, fried chicken, pizza, spaghetti Bolognese, chilli con carne, fries – you name it. If it had carbs and got to the table quickly, we were happy.

Ah, pizza, always there for us in a crisis. Photo by iStock.

2003 – Haute cuisine

In 1998 eating out in SA was often synonymous with Spur or Nando’s, and ‘fancy’ restaurants were for birthdays or other special celebrations. However, in 2003 fine dining became a more integral part of the everyday diner’s aspirations, with conversations between friends always including talks of the hottest new restaurants in the foodie scene.

2004 – Artisanal chocolate and molecular gastronomy

In truth, we still have a soft spot for artisanal chocolate and it’s not unusual to see the after-effects of molecular gastronomy on plates in the Top 10.

2005 – Sushi, bistros and the rise of Reuben Riffel

After winning the title of Eat Out Chef of the Year in 2004, chef Reuben Riffel began a new trend, steering the scene to appreciate everything homegrown. With his upbringing in Franschhoek and serious graft in local kitchens before opening his eponymous bistro-style eatery, Reuben stole everyone’s hearts. His classic cooking, use of local flavours and feel-good story brought everything South Africans wished for in a restaurant experience together, and made other chefs more eager to celebrate the ‘local is lekker’ philosophy.

Chef Reuben Riffel. Photo supplied.

As for sushi, we’re not saying it no longer has a place in our hearts. But in 2005 it really did seem like the height of sophistication and you judged your friends on their chopsticks skills.

 

2006 – Organic ingredients and deconstructed dishes

Much like artisanal chocolate, the use of organic ingredients has had staying power. We’re glad the trendiness has passed and left just the sensible practice behind.

As for deconstructed dishes, what started as an inventive phase eventually went too far.

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2007 – Savoury ice cream and gourmet burgers

This trend officially took off in 2001, when Heston Blumenthal created an egg-and-bacon ice cream at his Fat Duck restaurant in England. The idea was picked up by various speciality stores overseas before landing at SA shores. Richard Carstens and Jackie Cameron experimented with savoury ice creams in flavours like Parma ham, red onion and biltong. (Find some of Jackie’s recipes here. Also check out Cape Town ice cream store Unframed, which dabbles with products like vegan mushroom ice cream.)

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Gourmet burgers also took off in 2007 and, frankly, we don’t think it’s a trend that will ever die. Burger joints keep opening, each with a more over-the-top concept than the previous. 2017 was a particularly crazy burger year.

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2008 – Whole grains

The first rise of ancient grains came in 2008, with the popular use of whole grains like quinoa and forbidden rice. The trend resurged in 2017 in trendy bowl food.

2009 – Fancy salts

Two words: Himalayan salt. Even chain restaurants began replacing salt shakers with rock salt, which was touted as being healthier and tastier. It’s another trend that has stood the test of time, not least because the grains can be pink, blue or even black.

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2010 – Food trucks

Markets and food trucks totally transformed the local restaurant scene. Meeting friends at a market to shop, eat and drink and enjoy the outdoors has now become a permanent part of the foodie landscape. Street food is in our blood: there’s nothing as lekker as a boerie roll or bunny chow from a food truck or street-side caravan.

The Hippo Food Truck ready to serve. Photo supplied.

2011 – Charcuterie and nose-to-tail eating

2011 was the year that you’d struggle to find a menu without a charcuterie board in some iteration. And it’s no great wonder: great-quality cured meats paired with fruit, cheeses, baguettes and a fine wine will always have our vote.

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Probably no one described nose-to-tail eating better than chef Bertus Basson in our article about the trend at the time: “We caught on that we can have as much fun munching on pigs trotters as we do on caviar.”

2012 – Vegetable chips and powders

The pressure to eat five portions of fruit and vegetables a day is ever-present and daunting, so it’s no surprise that we turned to snacks to help us reach target! Vegetable chips, flash-fried and perfectly seasoned, might be tasty, but they could never permanently turn us away from our first love, potatoes.

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In the perpetual search for the next big smoothie mix-in, vegetable powders became a hopeful stop along the way. They would also later contribute to the rise of matcha and other superfood powders in 2015.

2013 – Edible flowers and cronuts

Delicate blossoms contrasted with croissant-doughnut hybrids (which were like being bludgeoned with a sugar and butter truncheon. Nevertheless, we, and the legions of people who queued for both the originals in New York, and the local versions, couldn’t get enough.)

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2014 – Craft beer

This is another one that hasn’t yet seen a fall in popularity. What started as a hipster trend soon settled in to become a staple on the local scene. The focus on craftsmanship and range of flavour in these small-batch drinks keep people coming back for more.

Red Rock craft beer selection served at Kitchen Kafe. Photo supplied.

2015 – Farm-to-table eating, foraging, kale, quinoa and bacon everything

How is it that bacon became wildly popular in the same year that kale and quinoa did? That’s anyone’s guess. What we do know is 2015 spawned a ‘baconporium’ in Cape Town, a bacon-based dating app, and a way to do shots out of bacon. Ok, now that we think about it, maybe the kale was a reasonable reaction.

A toastie from Bacon on Bree. Photo courtesy of Claire Gunn Photography.

Foraging and farm-to-table eating began as a way to get back to a simpler, pared down way of eating without compromising on flavour. Followers include big names in the restaurant industry, like chefs Kobus van der Merwe of Wolfgat, and Chris Erasmus of Foliage. Restaurants that have a farm-to-table approach include The Table at de Meye and Camphors at Vergelegen (both winners of our Eat Out Woolworths Sustainability Award).

One of Michael Cooke’s sustainably sourced dishes at Camphors. Photo supplied.

2016 – Charcoal

Activated charcoal, it could be argued, was another reactionary trend. Just when we thought the rainbow revolution (infecting everything from lattes to toast and bagels) showed no signs of slowing down, the activated charcoal craze took over. Though hauntingly beautiful (and made for perfect Instagram shots), the black lattes and ice cream soon garnered concern for their potentially harmful effects. We appreciated this one for the aesthetic, but ultimately we’re glad to say goodbye.

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2017 – Broth, tapas and seaweed

We aren’t sure what was more unexpected – a bar serving meals (and drinks!) made of broth, or the outcry from haters. The proof was in the pudding, though, and we were left impressed and ready to go back for more.

The white broth at Marrow

The white broth at Marrow. Photo supplied.

Tapas at Chefs Warehouse at Maison

A selection of tapas at Chefs Warehouse at Maison. Photo supplied.

The tapas style of enjoying small, shared plates has been popular worldwide for years – and doesn’t seem to be going anywhere. Check out our article about why diners can’t help being drawn to sharing plates.

Finally, we found seaweed flavouring our spaghetti before it popped up in all sorts of forms, including chips, granules and flakes – even in the treats aisle at Woolies.

Want to know what industry experts think are going to be trends in 2018? Read our story about it here and make sure to scoop up a copy of the 20th edition of the Eat Out magazine, the collectors’ issue.

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