All visitors want to go to Vilakazi Street. Not all visitors want to be trampled or fed silly versions of tourist trap food. Thrive is a double story beauty, a café-restaurant up above the throngs, with a cool balcony for looking out over Soweto, opposite ex-archbishop Tutu’s house.

Here you can sip cocktails, drink lovely wines, enjoy coffees made by the owner-barista, eat croissants, plain or filled, freshly baked on the premises or have an untouristy lunch, There are some nods to the trads, for instance a rich oxtail stew (top-end price of R110) and there’s a sort-of kota, served very elegantly with a curry filling. A malva pudding  is one of South Africa’s best known desserts. Otherwise, it is purposely untouristy. It is the sanity spot of Vilakazi street and sunsets are stunning from here.