Sean and Marcelle Roberts have earned culinary cult status quietly. Their success has been synonymous with that of Café 1999, which they joined 12 years ago before ultimately purchasing it. They were seriously contemplating migrating north across the Umgeni River and relocating Café 1999, but serendipity intervened when premises in the same building became available at a competitive price. Instead, they decided to open a new eatery.

“Unity is a pop-in place for a coffee, a beer, and something to eat. We are open all day and you can come in for whatever. There was definitely a gap for a hangout place and we wanted something different from the restaurant (Café 1999). I wanted it to be more of a bar, though it has turned out to be more of a restaurant anyway,” says Sean, conceding it was inevitable that their foodie reputation would translate into an increased demand for food.

“It was a head-over-heels decision! In one month we had the restaurant open, done and dusted. It was meant to be,” laughs Marcelle. It’s their second foray into opening a new restaurant. In 2006 they decided to spread to the nearby suburb of Glenwood where they opened the trendy gourmet pizzeria Pizzetta. The response was overwhelming but they decided to sell in 2008 when Marcelle fell pregnant.

Despite its close proximity, Unity has successfully managed to attract a very different clientele to that of Café 1999. Diverse patrons range from a post-theatre crowd to animated groups of friends looking for a casual night out. It has also given Durban an impromptu late night venue. The readily available newspapers and backgammon sets at Unity reinforce the couple’s desire to create a relaxed hangout.

The new restaurant menu has taken Marcelle back to basics. “It was really just stuff people enjoy to eat. I didn’t over-think it. I wanted to keep it fresh,” she explains. Unlike Café 1999 and its vegetarian predilection, Unity is primarily a stomping ground for the carnivorous.

The windows, walls, menus and waitrons’ shirts are emblazoned with different animals, all of which appear on the menu in some form. These are depicted with a sense of humour: the cow has a guitar in his belly and a chicken standing on his back.

Sean says using various animals was the best way to illustrate their use of quality products sourced from local suppliers with integrity. Handmade sausages and beef are from Greenfields in the Midlands (order a burger and taste the difference!); cured meats come from Chuck & Bob’s; and the lamb and pork (free-range and antibiotic- and hormone-free) hail from Hope Meats.

Appetisers, particularly appealing served on platters for well-priced, communal eating, include roasted bone marrow, peri peri chicken livers, salt and pepper squid, and deep-fried olives (a Café 1999 signature dish). Burgers – with feta, avo and bacon, or blue cheese, onion marmalade and rocket – fly out of the kitchen, and other meaty offerings include a boerie platter or pork loin chops served with apple chutney. Comforting classics range from bangers and mash with cider and onion gravy to tagliatelle ragu and a roast chicken and bacon pie.

Newly-qualified chef Rowan Chetty joined Marcelle this year to assist with catering, and now heads up the Unity kitchen. He’s also turning out great curries. “I wanted to serve Durban curries. Curry and beer: it just works,” says Marcelle. With so much time and effort being dedicated to food, Sean was also on a quest to serve real beer from Robson’s microbrewery, which uses only natural processes and no artificial additives. “We are brewing our own now,” says Sean excitedly. “I asked Stuart (Robson) of Robson’s to brew a beer for us that we can brand. We will begin in the next three weeks and should get 3000 drafts.” The Unity brew will be called Cowbell, inspired by the pop-culture catchphrase which calls for “more cowbell”, now enjoying cult-status since its first appearance on comedy show Saturday Night Live.

At Unity, it’s definitely a case of more eating, drinking and being merry!

By Tracy Gielink

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